It's not like a doughnut ever tastes bad, but somehow they always seem to taste best in the middle of the night, whether you've woken up with a craving or you're halfway through pulling an all-nighter (working or drinking or whatever; we aren't the sort to judge). That's why John Donut exists. You can go there during daylight hours -- they're open from 11 p.m. till 1 p.m. (no, that's not a typo) -- but we never have. It wouldn't be the same. At 2 a.m. the skeleton sitting in a barber's chair just inside the front door makes sense -- that and the Superman paraphernalia displayed above the counter could all be part of the same weird dream. How else can you explain how you got from charming Soulard to decidedly uncharming Kosciusko just by crossing Seventh Street? But one bite of a doughnut will convince you it's all for real. These truly are the best doughnuts in town: substantial without being dense, light without a sour yeasty aftertaste and sweet enough to melt on your tongue and linger until morning.