At Krispy Kreme, it's almost always time to make the doughnuts. And when it is, they're more than happy to let you know with their neon "Hot Doughnuts Now" sign. If you happen to be passing by when it lights up -- or perhaps just lurking outside waiting for it to happen -- you can stop in for a special taste treat. Not that Krispy Kreme's Original Glazed doughnuts aren't special enough after they've cooled. Doughnuts are a particularly subjective thing, and we're sure that your neighborhood bakery produces some fine ones, including one particular variety that might even be your favorite. But no little circle of dough has gotten the attention of St. Louisans like the Krispy Kreme Original Glazed, compelling folks to make doughnut pilgrimages to the national chain's four local outlets, in Fenton, Ferguson and O'Fallon, Mo., and on South Lindbergh. Most folks can't just buy a dozen -- unless they're prepared to report back home or to work with those doughnuts having suffered some serious damage and with plenty of telltale crumbs trailing down their chests. Incidentally, we know that Krispy Kreme serves more than a dozen varieties of doughnuts, and we swear we'll get to the others someday. But every time we're feeling adventurous, that "Hot Doughnuts" sign clicks on, and the same-old same-old seems like it would be the right choice once again. And it is.