The most accomplished King Louie's diners -- and there are a lot of them -- understand the idea of pacing and have realized the necessity of restraint, even when they're popping pommes frites
, shoveling in salad and biting into delicate baby ribs. First, don't eat the bread -- or, if you must, avoid eating more than one slice. It's a valuable waste of space, and you've got a specific destination in mind, one that dictates careful planning: dessert. If you're not careful -- and you usually aren't -- you're gonna ruin it. Second, make sure you drink a lot
of wine, because then, even if you are stuffed, you can be easily swayed. So: bread, a little; wine, a lot. Armed with this knowledge, bring on the sugar: Grandma Petty's Warm Apple Walnut Cake; flourless chocolate cake, right now being served with a gooseberry (oh, call it love) compote; Warm Turkish Apricot Almond Tartlet, which is a vision that even the most bloated can't resist. These are the creations of Helen Petty, who's helmed the King Louie's dessert station for nearly a year. Petty, who was one of the masterminds behind the Chocolate Bar -- itself slobberingly good -- knows when to stop with the sugar already and understands balance and subtlety but still seems to appreciate a good old-fashioned chocolate-induced orgasm. Oh, and you should probably order a glass of port as well.