Does anything more need to be said after the words "guanciale BLT"? This alone makes Salume Beddu worthy of some sort of award, yet it's only one of the opportunities patrons have to sample the housemade cured meats good enough to make an Italian artisan shake in his scarpi. Sure, Salume Beddu is a nationally acclaimed salumeria — more than a simple deli — but this aim for porcine greatness should not disqualify it from being considered the best deli counter. After all, who says mustard potato salad is a prerequisite for the label? Where else can diners feast on porchetta with braised fennel or poached salame cotto, comforted with the knowledge that the meat was prepared with loving care just around the corner from the rustic communal farm table where they sit? It helps Salume Beddu's case that its "Beast" is one of the most perfect sausage sandwiches known to man. From the fennel of the fiama salsiccia to the spiciness of the peperonata to the perfect crusty on the outside, pillowy on the inside bread, it is like pretty much everything else at Salume Beddu — as good as it gets.
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