Best Comeback

Spice-n-Grill

When Indian Food shuttered in 2010, fans of Shaheena Khan's Indian and Pakistani creations feared that they'd never again taste anything so sublime as her beef nihari, that heady stew spiked with cilantro and lime. As it happened, they had to wait only a year and a half for Shaheena and her husband, Zahid, to return to University City, this time with Spice-n-Grill. The Khans' new venture is more takeout joint than sit-down restaurant — the tiny storefront seats a dozen or so — but the food can hold its own against any Indian or Pakistani fare in town: elegant biryani and chana masala; fiery goat karahi and chicken vindaloo; creamy palak paneer (spinach with homemade cheese). The beef nihari (or lamb, if you prefer) returns, too, just as pitch-perfectly flavorful. That alone would have been sufficient.

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