What is it that makes people go gaga over Happy China? Eat at some other Chinese (buffet) restaurants and then come here, and you'll see. Other joints may have bigger buffets or tasty dishes, but Happy China has them trumped in several big ways. Just about everything on the Happy China menu is done in a distinctive way and tastes a bit better than the standard. Try a variety of things from the buffet: In addition to the old standbys (e.g., garlic chicken, hot-and-sour soup, potstickers, sweet-and-sour pork), the buffet is famous for stocking unusual items such as whole crawfish, buffalo wings, pad thai, crispy and traditional egg rolls, spring rolls (with plum sauce), stuffed pockets of mu shu chicken, fried fish and a little sushi. The fried-item station includes squid, crab and little pockets of kernel corn. The dessert area includes fresh cherries. The only drawback here is the size of the human stomach. A bonus: The staff includes at least one comedian. On a recent visit, when one diner cracked open her fortune cookie to find no fortune at all, her waiter deadpanned, "No news is good news."