A hotly contested issue, these chicken wings. Some say it's all in the sauce, and that nothing shy of scathing will do. While there's no denying the appeal of huddling around the electric campfire at a sports bar with a plateful of tongue-numbing wings at the ready, gastronomically speaking this approach obliterates any understated flavor notes that might be cowering beneath the bombastic onslaught. And while purists bemoan the proliferation of bizarre variations"Garlic Parmesan? Thai? The humble fried chicken wing hardly has a place to roost anymore!"more choices can mean progress, as evolutionary branching leads to successful mutations. Which brings us to Brandt's skinless baked wing, re-panned in a teriyaki/hot sauce mixture. The wings are large and oh-so-tender, the sauce sounding subtle caramel notes but no sugary aftertaste. It is a criminal oversight that while the teriyaki and hot sauce options are featured separately on the menu, this superior combination of the two is not, and is only occasionally recommended by the waitstaff. Such a profound advance in poultry preparation deserves recognitioneven by the hockey-jersey crowd that would find Brandt's far too fa-fa for their wingward wanderings. The wing's the thing. The tang's the thang.