Can one dish actually draw customers from 40 miles away? How about from Florida? Just try and get a Friday- or Saturday-night reservation without three to four weeks' notice at Trattoria Marcella. This place is, without a doubt, the hottest see-and-be-seen restaurant in town. Reminiscent of a New York bistro, Marcella serves up some of the best Italian food in the area and, bar none, the best calamari. These delicate batter-dipped curls and ringlets are served on a crispy green bed of deep-fried spinach (a St. Louis original), topped with thick curls of Italian cheese. In a city that probably has more Italian restaurants than Pisa, one of them was bound to get this seafood delicacy down to an art.