Oh, the Caesar. Once a proud salad, prepared for vacationing movie stars by Tijuana chef Caesar Cardini, it's now too often besmirched by gloppy dressing or (perish the thought!) iceberg lettuce. Absolutely not so at Frazer Cameron's lauded restaurant, where the Caesar is something to celebrate. Cameron begins with beautiful whole leaves of romaine lettuce, then tosses the greens with a homemade dressing of stone-ground mustard, minced anchovies, garlic and red-wine vinegar. Once on the plate, the whole shebang is topped with fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano (luscious curls, not teensy shavings), homemade sourdough croutons and a smattering of coarse black pepper. Now this is a salad that deserves celebrity status.