If you're not a merchant -- in fact, if you're not the right sort of merchant -- you've got no business in Trautman's Bar & Grill at lunchtime. As for the lunch of merchants, Trautman's sign says it all: MERCHANTS LUNCHES. You won't even know the place is called Trautman's if you don't look at a menu, which you'll need to do in any case to order a "BRAIN SANDWICH on Rye with Pickle and Oniom, 3.50). There is another option, though, and that is Saturday, when, in late spring, they may leave the door propped open for the breeze. You can sit in the cool, nicotined interior, drink Milwaukee's Best from a short glass and listen to "Walk, Don't Run" for a couple of hours. Your brief time on this earth could be less well wasted.