Depending on which direction you're coming from, Taft Street Restaurant and Bar marks either the beginning or the end of the Bosnian district that surrounds the Bevo Mill. More than that, though, it's the signature spot for the revival of the Gravois business district, a place for mayoral press announcements and bendy-straws in a child's glass of milk. The grace and cuisine of the Old Country blends with the high-end American dining experience, yielding an immigrant mastery of the culinary arts of St. Louis with a touch of European café society so foreign to natives. The atmosphere is low-key class at a leisurely pace, and when the bill comes it always seems the experience should have cost you far more than it did.