Kevin will always be the lesser-known Dillon brother, Matt the star. Even as Kevin makes a name for himself in HBO's Entourage, he remains fated to play the less-famous brother (Johnny "Drama" to Adrian Grenier's Vincent Chase). Think of the bialy as the food version of poor Kevin. It has just as much to offer the taste buds as the bagel does, but it has never achieved the fame of its plumper sibling. Named for the Polish city of Bialystok, the bialy is circular like a bagel, but it's never boiled before baking, and it has no hole in the middle. Instead, its center is depressed andget thistopped with diced onions and sometimes poppy seeds and garlic. For some reason, the bialy never really took hold in this country outside New York City. Pumpernickles Delicatessen owner Brad Hartman is doing his part to broaden the bialy's reach, by having them shipped in from Coney Island Bialy in Brooklyn. Brad says the shipping costs make it a break-even proposition at best, but we think the effort is well worth it, and in the name of the "Best of St. Louis" not to mention Kevin Dillonwe salute him, and Pumpernickles.