Pork is the unquestioned king of barbecue meats in St. Louis, but if there's ever a revolution, the flash point might be this small joint in a Chesterfield strip mall. Paul Lamers and Mark Ruck opened this, their first restaurant, after winning fans in local barbecue competitions. One bite of their sublime beef brisket, and you'll likely count yourself a fan, too. Smoked over hickorywood for twelve hours, the meat is so tender that you can cut it with a mere glance. Take note of the added degree of difficulty: Lamers and Ruck are so confident theirs is the most tender in town that they serve their brisket -- a cut that tends to be tough -- sliced thick. The flavor is deeply beefy, with just the right touch of woodsmoke. Be afraid, pigs. Be very afraid.
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