Ronnie Praztel's grandfather started making bagels in 1913. He passed the recipe on to the next generation, and so on...you know the story. Ronnie Pratzel, who's now in his sixties, makes bagels with that same recipe today. His grandfather, he says, referred to his dough as "concrete dough." It's that stiff dough that forms the backbone of the Pratzel's bagel. After being mechanically shaped into circles, the dough rests for 24 hours. At that point the bagels are boiled in plain water, then baked in an enormous, 56-pan revolving oven. It doesn't look as though there'll be another Pratzel to take over the family business, but Ronnie assures us that the family recipe will survive to nourish St. Louis for years to come.