Best Approximation of St. Louis in a Sandwich

The Gramophone's "Mississippi Nights Club"

Staff Pick

Back in February, the Gramophone began its second life as a "tavern, deli and bottle shop." The owners hired chef Brian Hardesty as a consultant and, with his assistance, doubled the size of the sandwich menu. New knockouts include a bánh mi and the "Grove Gerber," but the most St. Louis sandwich is even more St. Louis than that, and it resides on the "Originals" menu. The "Mississippi Nights Club" has everything (except Provel, which is fine): nostalgia in its name. The preferred Midwest minimum of three meats: turkey, bacon and roast beef. There's also pepper cheese, spicy red-pepper spread, pepper mayo and — why the hell not? — a crushed bag of Billy Goat chips on top of the whole deal. You've got to order it up at the bar, and we suggest eating it right there too, while those chips still pack a crunch. Refresh your drink and then order one more. The "Mississippi Nights Club" ain't healthy, it ain't fancy and it's kind of a glorious mess. Much like a certain city we happen to love. 4243 Manchester Avenue, St. Louis, 63110. 314-531-5700, www.gramophonestl.com.
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