Best Approximation of Kingston

De Palm Tree

For many Americans, Jamaican cuisine begins and ends with jerk chicken, Red Stripe beer and speakers pumping Bob Marley tunes. A visit to De Palm Tree explodes the myth, starting with seafood, from baked red snapper and shrimp sautéed in curry sauce to escovitch (pickled fish) and the national dish of salt cod and ackee (a lychee-like fruit). The menu's hidden gem might be the curry goat — or possibly the oxtail stew, the rich flavor of the meat accented with pepper and rounded out by pillowy butter beans. Of course, just because everyone knows about jerk chicken already doesn't mean you shouldn't order it. It's the house specialty here: tender meat, very spicy and brightly flavored dry rub and, on the side, a dish of the addictive jerk sauce. And, yes, there is Bob Marley, too, playing on the stereo and celebrated on the walls. It's fitting: After a meal here, every little thing does feel like it's gonna be all right.

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