The gossamer strips of citrus-cured corvina arrive from the raw bar in a coconut, but you don't need the reminder — the sheer freshness of the Peruvian ceviche at Boundary (7036 Clayton Avenue; 314-932-7818) is all you need to be transported to the Pacific.
Chef Rex Hale certainly knows a thing or two about seafood, having spent a good part of his culinary career in the Caribbean. After tasting his ceviche, though, you'd think he came up in a coastal Peruvian kitchen. Boundary's version of the cured seafood dish is spiked with aji amarillo, a fruity chili that's said to taste like sunshine itself. He softens its barely-there heat with some coconut milk, which helps to underscore the corvina's creamy texture. Close your eyes as you take a bite and you'll be convinced you were on a beach throwing back pisco sours rather than at a hotel hotspot in the middle of the country. If only Hale could make us a life-sized replica of Machu Picchu, we really could skip that trip.