by Cheryl Baehr
With so many wood-fire ovens cooking up Neapolitan-style pizza in town these days, one wonders if NASA can see the smoke from space. One after another, these pizzerias are springing up all around St. Louis, all dedicated to the craft of creating the perfect pie. Though most hang their hat on the classic Margherita, it's Pizzeoli's (1928 South 12th Street; 314-449-1111) "Bianca" pizza that puts it at the top of the pack.
Pizzeoli's "Bianca" pie is a lesson in how simple ingredients, when assembled in perfect balance, can be more successful than a complicated dish. The hand-tossed dough is brushed with creamy bechemel and drizzled with olive oil before it is topped with garlic and fresh mozzarella. What makes this pie so special is the addition of fresh rosemary -- when roasted in the wood oven, the herb permeates the pizza, resulting in a garlicky, cheesy dish with a hint of perfume. Neapolitan pizza may be a crowded field, but there is more than enough room for the "Bianca".
Previously: #92: Dumplings at Lona's Lil Eats #93: A St. Louis-Style Pizza from Frank & Helen's Pizzeria #94: Singapore Mei Fun at Bek-Hee #95: The Monte Cristo at Three Flags Tavern #96: The Meatloaf Blue Plate Lunch at Farmhaus #97: Comet Coffee's Chocolate Chip Cookie #98: Canestri Cacio e Pepe at Pastaria #99: The Granola Pancakes at Whitebox Eatery #100: Chicken Noodle Soup at Grove East Provisions