by Cheryl Baehr
St. Louis has seen an explosion of new pizza restaurants over the past year, especially those of the Neapolitan variety. We love its speckled crust, simple sauce and fresh cheese just as much (if not more) than the next person, but sometimes we've got to have a good ol' St. Louis-style pie from Frank & Helen's Pizzeria (8111 Olive Boulevard; 314-997-0666).
The University City institution has remained virtually unchanged since opening in 1956. Its original sign boasts such treats as "charcoal steaks and broasted chicken," but it's the restaurant's pizza that keeps us coming back. Frank & Helen's offers several sauce, crust and cheese customizations, but for our money, there is only one choice: a classic thin crust with red sauce and Provel cheese. The crust is thicker than other St. Louis-style versions -- it's like a flaky flatbread -- so it's able to support a generous serving of toppings and cheese. Whether opting for a classic sausage pie or just plain cheese, make sure to ask for some fresh chopped garlic to give it some extra zip. It's no wonder this place has been around for nearly 60 years. We can only hope for 60 more.
Previously: #94: Singapore Mei Fun at Bek-Hee #95: The Monte Cristo at Three Flags Tavern #96: The Meatloaf Blue Plate Lunch at Farmhaus #97: Comet Coffee's Chocolate Chip Cookie #98: Canestri Cacio e Pepe at Pastaria #99: The Granola Pancakes at Whitebox Eatery #100: Chicken Noodle Soup at Grove East Provisions