by Cheryl Baehr
I'd driven by Bek-Hee (10200 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-426-4773) hundreds of times without giving the place a second glance -- the hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant looks like just another Overland chop suey dive. Then I got a tip from a trusted colleague that the restaurant is under new ownership and that the family now in charge is churning out delicious handmade cuisine. He said their egg rolls are the best he's had in town -- a bold statement from a man with a discerning palate.
He did not overstate the matter. It turns out that Bek-Hee is now owned by the Jin family, ex-pats from Sha County in the south of China. Sha is known throughout China as a culinary epicenter, tracing its edible roots back to the Han Dynasty. The Jins brought some of this Sha County cooking with them to Bek-Hee, as well as a commitment to making everything by hand. The sauces, the noodles, the spring rolls -- Mr. and Mrs. Jin toil away seven days a week, making everything from scratch. The housemade egg roll is some of their best handiwork. The paper-thin, homemade wonton wrapper is stuffed with juicy pork and crisp cabbage, seasoned with a hefty dose of black pepper and fried to a golden crisp. It's so overstuffed, it's a wonder that the wrapper is able to contain the contents. The egg rolls alone are good enough to put Bek-Hee on the map once the word gets out about this hidden gem.
Previously: #61: Pumpkin Maple Latte at Kaldi's Coffee #62: Casconcelli at Giovanni's Kitchen #63: Athlete Eats' Bibimbap Bowl #64: Salt + Smoke's Beef Brisket #65: Buffalo Cauliflower Bites at Lulu's Local Eatery #66: Home Wine Kitchen's Shortbread Sea-Salt Biscuits #67: Death in the Afternoon's Grilled Mahi Mahi Sandwich #68: The Brisket Burger at Three Flags Tavern #69: Siam's Kimchi Hot Pot #70: Urban Chestnut's "Strammer Max" #71: "Mom's Special" at Mom's Deli #72: Broasted Chicken at Frank & Helen's Pizzeria #73: Parmesan Chicken Broth at Bocci Wine Bar #74: "Burger" at Small Batch Whiskey & Fare #75: Smoked Salami Sandwich at Adam's Smokehouse #76: Gyro on Pita at Olympia Kebob House & Taverna #77: The Johnny Cake at TreeHouse #78: A Classic Glazed Doughnut from Pharoah's Donuts #79: Skordalia at the Purple Martin #80: Beef Brisket Birria Taco Taco at Mission Taco Joint #81: Cappuccino from Sump Coffee #82: The Salted Caramel Croissant at Pint Size Bakery #83: Gnocchi at the Good Pie #84: Truffled Tater Tots at Blood & Sand #85: Marinated Feta Cheese at Evangeline's Bistro and Music House #86: Chorizo and Egg Sope at Spare No Rib #87: Duck Burger at Planter's House #88: WildSmoke's Smoked Chicken Wings #89: The Duck Prosciutto Flatbread at Bella Vino #90: The "Dam Burger" at the Dam #91: The "Hog Mess" at Blind Tiger #92: Khao Soi at Fork & Stix #93: The "Smokehouse Club" Sandwich at Bud's Smokehouse #94: Cafe Natasha's Yogurt Dip #95: Macarons at La Patisserie Chouquette #96: The Libertine's Fried Chicken #97: Pork Belly at Element #98: M'Lwee at Baida #99: Breadbasket at Juniper #100: Bucatini All'Amatriciana at Pastaria