I'd driven by Bek-Hee (10200 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-426-4773) hundreds of times without giving the place a second glance -- the hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant looks like just another Overland chop suey dive. Then I got a tip from a trusted colleague that the restaurant is under new ownership and that the family now in charge is churning out delicious handmade cuisine. He said their egg rolls are the best he's had in town -- a bold statement from a man with a discerning palate.
He did not overstate the matter. It turns out that Bek-Hee is now owned by the Jin family, ex-pats from Sha County in the south of China. Sha is known throughout China as a culinary epicenter, tracing its edible roots back to the Han Dynasty. The Jins brought some of this Sha County cooking with them to Bek-Hee, as well as a commitment to making everything by hand. The sauces, the noodles, the spring rolls -- Mr. and Mrs. Jin toil away seven days a week, making everything from scratch. The housemade egg roll is some of their best handiwork. The paper-thin, homemade wonton wrapper is stuffed with juicy pork and crisp cabbage, seasoned with a hefty dose of black pepper and fried to a golden crisp. It's so overstuffed, it's a wonder that the wrapper is able to contain the contents. The egg rolls alone are good enough to put Bek-Hee on the map once the word gets out about this hidden gem.
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