by Cheryl Baehr
The grilled mahi mahi sandwich at Death in the Afternoon (808 Chestnut Street; 314-621-3236) is so beautiful it could grace the pages of a glossy food magazine. Its sesame-studded, perfectly round bun glistens with a buttery sheen, and the grill marks on the gossamer piece of fish look as if they were drawn on with a ruler's precision. One bite into this luscious sandwich, however, proves that it's more than just a pretty face.
Death in the Afternoon's menu is populated with one hit after another, but it's the grilled mahi mahi sandwich that steals the show. The fish is shockingly fresh for the heartland and is so succulent it seems as though it's been poached in butter. Refreshing fennel slaw, crisp housemade pickles and a drizzle of pungent malt-vinegar mayo garnish the sandwich. Then there's the bread: a soft, pillowy roll that tastes malty and subtly sweet. Death in the afternoon? Yes, I died and went to heaven.
Previously: #68: The Brisket Burger at Three Flags Tavern #69: Siam's Kimchi Hot Pot #70: Urban Chestnut's "Strammer Max" #71: "Mom's Special" at Mom's Deli #72: Broasted Chicken at Frank & Helen's Pizzeria #73: Parmesan Chicken Broth at Bocci Wine Bar #74: "Burger" at Small Batch Whiskey & Fare #75: Smoked Salami Sandwich at Adam's Smokehouse #76: Gyro on Pita at Olympia Kebob House & Taverna #77: The Johnny Cake at TreeHouse #78: A Classic Glazed Doughnut from Pharoah's Donuts #79: Skordalia at the Purple Martin #80: Beef Brisket Birria Taco Taco at Mission Taco Joint #81: Cappuccino from Sump Coffee #82: The Salted Caramel Croissant at Pint Size Bakery #83: Gnocchi at the Good Pie #84: Truffled Tater Tots at Blood & Sand #85: Marinated Feta Cheese at Evangeline's Bistro and Music House #86: Chorizo and Egg Sope at Spare No Rib #87: Duck Burger at Planter's House #88: WildSmoke's Smoked Chicken Wings #89: The Duck Prosciutto Flatbread at Bella Vino #90: The "Dam Burger" at the Dam #91: The "Hog Mess" at Blind Tiger #92: Khao Soi at Fork & Stix #93: The "Smokehouse Club" Sandwich at Bud's Smokehouse #94: Cafe Natasha's Yogurt Dip #95: Macarons at La Patisserie Chouquette #96: The Libertine's Fried Chicken #97: Pork Belly at Element #98: M'Lwee at Baida #99: Breadbasket at Juniper #100: Bucatini All'Amatriciana at Pastaria