by Cheryl Baehr
One could be forgiven for assuming that the must-eat dish at the Good Pie (6665 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-899-9221) would be the pizza. Without a doubt, it's fantastic, but the delicious pies run the danger of obscuring the best dish on the menu -- the housemade gnocchi. Diners may be tempted to pass on the pasta to save room for the pizza, but it's not necessary. The dish is a small appetizer portion of not more than a few bites. What it lacks in size it more than makes up for in taste.
The Good Pie changes the preparation on a regular basis -- exciting, because it allows the chefs to play around with different flavors, but disappointing because the version I had is one of the best things I've eaten all year, and I wish I could get it anytime. Pasta-maker John Messbarger creates delicate little pillows, sautéed for just enough caramelization to create a crispy exterior. On the night of my visit it was tossed with chunks of funky blue cheese, candied pecans, pickled cranberries and brown butter for an expert balance of sweet, salty, rich and tart.
Good pie? Yes. Great gnocchi? Absolutely.
Previously: #84: Truffled Tater Tots at Blood & Sand #85: Marinated Feta Cheese at Evangeline's Bistro and Music House #86: Chorizo and Egg Sope at Spare No Rib #87: Duck Burger at Planter's House #88: WildSmoke's Smoked Chicken Wings #89: The Duck Prosciutto Flatbread at Bella Vino #90: The "Dam Burger" at the Dam #91: The "Hog Mess" at Blind Tiger #92: Khao Soi at Fork & Stix #93: The "Smokehouse Club" Sandwich at Bud's Smokehouse #94: Cafe Natasha's Yogurt Dip #95: Macarons at La Patisserie Chouquette #96: The Libertine's Fried Chicken #97: Pork Belly at Element #98: M'Lwee at Baida #99: Breadbasket at Juniper #100: Bucatini All'Amatriciana at Pastaria