by Mabel Suen
At Three Flags Tavern (4940 Southwest Avenue; 314-669-9222), named after Three Flags Day, owners John and Cathy O'Brien draw influence from Old World French, Spanish and American cuisine to provide a modern-day comfort-food menu alongside a bar brimming with all the proper bottles and accouterments. The restaurant opened late last month in the Southwest Garden neighborhood near the Hill, filling the space formerly occupied by Harry's Bar & Grill.
Servers come outfitted in colorful bow ties, pressed white shirts and long aprons to accompany the classically themed dining room. Hardwood floors and vintage-style light fixtures coincide a wall-length map of the Northwest territory in the 1800s, sandwiched between gilded portraits from the period.
The "board of fare" features rustic scratch-made food divided into small plates, large plates, sides and desserts. Start with dishes, including lobster beignets or Berkshire pork shank posole to share, or go straight for the main course. Choose from a heirloom pork mixed grill with apple hasty pudding and sauce jus lié; a lobster roll available in Maine style or Connecticut style; a ground brisket burger and more.
A wine list includes white, sparkling and red varieties by the bottle or glass. A short list of house cocktails is also available including "636" made with Pickney Bend blended white whiskey, Mad Buffalo white corn whiskey, bendectine, Dolin Blanc and Boston bitters as well as "Flesh & Prairie," a concoction of Vida mezcal, the Big O ginger liqueur, Dolin Rouge, fresh blood orange and fired orange oil.
Three Flags Tavern's current hours are Tuesday through Saturday from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m., with the dining room and dinner service available at 5 p.m. For more information, visit the Three Flags Tavern website, or follow it on Facebook and Twitter.
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