by Cheryl Baehr
Editor's note: This week marks the debut of Riverfront Times' new restaurant critic, Cheryl Baehr. We hope you appreciate her thoughts and wit as much as we already have.
I'll admit that I was a skeptic en route to Central Table Food Hall (23 South Euclid Avenue; 314-932-5595). True, variety is the spice of life, but I could not help but equate the food-station concept with that of an ostentatious wedding. Malls have food stations -- they're called courts. So do cruises. If anything needs to be buried at sea, it's the threat of salmonella with your Baked Alaska, abated only by strategically positioned stations of hand sanitizer.
So would the "food hall" concept work at this ambitious, new restaurant in the Central West End?
In a word: Yes!
See also: - First Look: Central Table Food Hall Offers Artisan Eats in the Central West End - Q&A With Central Table Food Hall Developer Walter McClure - Sizing Up The Vegetarian Options at Central Table Food Hall