Review Preview: The Kitchen Sink


  • Mabel Suen

Maybe it's surprising that a restaurant like the Kitchen Sink (280 DeBaliviere Avenue; 314-261-4455) didn't already exist. There isn't much else to eat in this bustling little stretch by the Forest Park MetroLink station. A modest, affordable restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner? Should be a slam dunk.

See Also: - "First Look: The Kitchen Sink Cooks Up A Cajun-Infused Diner-Style Menu of Burgers, Sandwiches and More"

Location, location, location -- or so the real-estate experts would have us believe. Yet the Kitchen Sink isn't simply a neighborhood joint. It doesn't merely fill a need. And it certainly isn't trying to spot the next hot part of town. Yes, this area is busy, but it certainly isn't hip.

No, the key to understanding the Kitchen Sink isn't the where so much as the who. Owner and chef Anthony Ellerson Jr. has lived in this neighborhood for most of his 35 years, so he hasn't targeted a market -- he's brought his cooking home.

How else to explain the menu here: an intriguing blend of Cajun classics and Ellerson's own, fun takes on American diner fare. What shouldn't you miss. Check out my review and Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow tomorrow on Gut Check.

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