by Ian Froeb
I'm counting down the top ten dishes from the new restaurants that I reviewed in 2012. Read the complete series to date.
#3. Steak tartare at Little Country Gentleman (8135 Maryland Avenue, Clayton; 314-725-0719)
A small mound of steak tartare sits at four o'clock on the broad rim of a large plate. Specks of cilantro stem dot the meat here and there with green. Three thin rice crackers jut out from it at odd angles. Atop the tartare the dusky orange yolk of a quail egg glistens. At the center of this plate, in a shallow indentation, is an amber daikon-radish consommé. Per your server's advice, you spoon the tartare through the consommé, and the daikon's mild sweetness and hint of earth pairs beautifully with the meat's mineral sharpness, while the silken quail-egg yolk, though no bigger than a quarter, gives the dish a luscious, lasting body.
-- from "Esprit de Course" (December 20, 2012)
#4: The "Pork Porterhouse" at Cleveland-Heath #5: Grilled quail at Blood & Sand #6: "Spicy Wonton Soup" at Famous Szechuan Pavilion #7: Pho at St. Louis Pho #8: "Dad's Green-Chile Cheeseburger" at Five Star Burgers #9: The pambazo at Siete Luminarias #10: The oatmeal cream pie at Pint Size Bakery & Coffee