by Ian Froeb
This week I visit the latest venture from Gerard Craft, along with executive chef Adam Altnether and executive sous chef Brian Moxey: Pastaria (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-862-6603).
You could easily overlook the most exciting dish at Pastaria, the latest venture from acclaimed chef Gerard Craft of Niche, Brasserie by Niche and Taste. The menu calls it simply "Chitarra" and offers no further description aside from a list of the supporting ingredients: olive oil, garlic, chile. In this case, though, such a list is apt because the dish brings nothing but pasta alla chitarra (spaghetti-like strands so called because traditionally they are cut from the sheet of dough with a fretwork of wires; here they are extruded from a pasta machine) tossed with olive oil, slivered garlic and chile-pepper flakes.
It looks like the plate of buttered noodles your parents had to make because you, you picky brat, refused to eat anything else.
Visit Gut Check tomorrow morning to read my review of Pataria and see Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow of the restaurant.