by Ian Froeb
This week, at long last, I finally manage to get in the door of Blood & Sand (1500 St. Charles Street; 314-241-7263), the members-only restaurant and bar featuring the cocktail wizardry of TJ Vytlacil and the cooking of Chris Bork.
The entrance to Blood & Sand is nearly as magical as the invisible Platform 9-3/4 through which Harry Potter boards the train to Hogwarts. Only a discreet plaque beside a revolving door on an otherwise desolate stretch of St. Charles Street -- more alley than street, all service doors and garage fumes -- suggests you have arrived at anything out of the ordinary. Push through that door, however, and you enter one of St. Louis' most exciting restaurants.
Push through, that is, as long as you are a card-carrying member or in the company of one.
Should you try to become a card-carrying member yourself? (Full memberships are sold out, but partial memberships remain available.) Visit Gut Check tomorrow morning to read my review and see Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow.