This week, I'm back on the food-truck beat, checking out Go! Gyro! Go! (@GoGyroGo; 314-496-3970) and Feed Me Banh Mi (@FeedMeTruck; 314-299-2900).
The stretch of North Broadway south of Olive Street is an acutely bland corridor of downtown, fifty shades of gray and then some. There looms the Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis in all of its technocratic majesty and not much else. So when the food truck Go! Gyro! Go! parked here on a recent Monday, its bright blue lettering was distinctive by default. What struck me, though, wasn't the truck itself -- St. Louis' food-truck boom is almost two years old now: it's no longer a trend; its a fact of life -- but the two small gyro spits slowly turning inside of it.
I've already reviewed several food trucks in this column. My approach has been, or has evolved to be, to highlight vendors where the fare transcends the medium. Or, as I wrote about Guerrilla Street Food, that it happens to be a food truck is the least interesting thing about it. But now I fear I've missed something essential about food trucks -- something that didn't click until I saw the inverted cones of beef and lamb roasting inside Go! Gyro! Go!
Visit Gut Check tomorrow morning to read my review of both trucks and view Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow.