An acclaimed Memphis chef, by way of Harrah's Casino. This week, I visit Kelly English Steakhouse (777 Casino Center Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-770-8100). Page through for a sneak peek at my review.
Kelly English Steakhouse exists in a geographical vacuum. This isn't a knock on Maryland Heights, where the restaurant debuted last November, replacing the Range Steakhouse inside Harrah's St. Louis casino. Nor is it the usual observation that this casino, like every other, is a sealed environment, rootless, timeless, the only marker of the hours' passage the buffet's transition from breakfast to dinner and then back again. (Though, of course, this description fits Harrah's.) No, what makes a visit here both fascinating and frustrating is that you're eating in a suburban St. Louis restaurant whose eponymous chef is based in Memphis and whose acclaimed cooking there draws upon his Louisiana upbringing -- yet you still feel as if you could be just about anywhere.
Check back here tomorrow morning for my review and a slideshow of Kelly English steakhouse.