by Ian Froeb
This week, I visit the new Mexican restaurant Siete Luminarias (2818 Cherokee Street; 314-932-1333). While the menu includes tacos and other taqueria staples, there are also some less familiar dishes.
To the catalogue of essential sandwiches we must now add the pambazo. This is essentially the classic Mexican torta -- meat, vegetables and condiments between the two halves of a large, soft roll -- though pambazo bread traditionally isn't as soft as a torta's bolillo, and before you assemble a pambazo, you soak the bread in a guajillo-chile sauce, giving it a distinctive red hue and a mild kick. Unlike a torta ahogada, which is "drowned" in chile sauce, the pambazo isn't a knife-and-fork sandwich, the bread having soaked up much of the sauce. You'll need napkins, sure, but you won't ruin your clothes.
Check back here tomorrow morning to read my review of Siete Luminarias.