Smack in the middle of the Washington Avenue social scene isn't the first place most people would think to look for traditional Irish fare. But during dining hours, The Dubliner (1025 Washington Avenue, 314-421-4300) offers a relaxed pub atmosphere complete with colorful Irish flags and rugby jerseys.
At The Dubliner you'll find the usual pub offerings, but it also has potato boxty, an item that is wholly Irish. "Boxty," which comes from the Irish word for "poor house bread," is a traditional Irish potato pancake. Boxty can be served with all manner of toppings or wrapped around meat or vegetables.
The Dubliner chooses to present its boxty simply, topping a round potato pancake with potato crisps, scallion slices, cheddar, bits of bacon and crème fraiche. All the toppings provide a nice salty, crunchy element, while the scallions give the simple ingredients some zip.
As it should be with boxty, the pancake is the highlight. Its exterior is slightly crisp and the inside is smooth, creamy potato. With highly rich flavor, The Dubliner's potato boxty is far from poor house bread.