Review Preview: Diablitos Cantina

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This week, I visit Diablitos Cantina (3761 Laclede Avenue; 314-644-4430), the new Mex/Tex-Mex mashup from the folks who brought you Cafe Ventana and Sanctuaria.

There's a lot to talk about -- and not just the food.

The décor is to kitsch what Soviet socialist realism is to propaganda, which is to say an appalling apotheosis. Dozens of large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures hang together above the front half of the large dining room, suggesting nothing so much as a showroom for large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures. Catholic iconography abounds, including one wall covered with reclaimed church doors of varying shapes and sizes. There is a sort of mirrorball made from a stack of three spinning Day of the Dead-style skulls.

Check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

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