Review Preview: Diablitos Cantina



This week, I visit Diablitos Cantina (3761 Laclede Avenue; 314-644-4430), the new Mex/Tex-Mex mashup from the folks who brought you Cafe Ventana and Sanctuaria.

There's a lot to talk about -- and not just the food.

The décor is to kitsch what Soviet socialist realism is to propaganda, which is to say an appalling apotheosis. Dozens of large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures hang together above the front half of the large dining room, suggesting nothing so much as a showroom for large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures. Catholic iconography abounds, including one wall covered with reclaimed church doors of varying shapes and sizes. There is a sort of mirrorball made from a stack of three spinning Day of the Dead-style skulls.

Check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

Support Local Journalism.
Join the Riverfront Times Press Club

Local journalism is information. Information is power. And we believe everyone deserves access to accurate independent coverage of their community and state. Our readers helped us continue this coverage in 2020, and we are so grateful for the support.

Help us keep this coverage going in 2021. Whether it's a one-time acknowledgement of this article or an ongoing membership pledge, your support goes to local-based reporting from our small but mighty team.

Join the Riverfront Times Club for as little as $5 a month.