by Ian Froeb
This week, I visit Baileys' Range (920 Olive Street; 314-241-8121), Dave Baileys' downtown burger joint. Follow me after the jump for a sneak peek at my review.
Baileys' Range, the latest, most ambitious venture from restaurateur Dave Bailey (Baileys' Chocolate Bar, Rooster and the Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar), could be the perfect restaurant for St. Louis' current culinary moment. It's a burger joint writ large, and even allowing for the fact that burgers never stopped being scarfed, right now that most iconic of American foods is sriracha-red hot.
Fast-casual spots serving so-called better burgers continue to multiply, and some of our best chefs continue to outclass them. (Seriously, try the burger at Five Bistro or Home Wine Kitchen, and you might never again darken the door of a restaurant with "burger" in its name.) And of course there are the classics, the O'Connell's and the Seamus McDaniel's, whose partisans are vociferous whenever I clear my throat and politely suggest St. Louis has room in its heart for the new as well as the old.
Check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.