by Ian Froeb
In a post on Gut Check, Riverfront Times' food blog, I got a little snippy about my visit to St. Louis Wing Co., opining that, at the very least, a restaurant specializing in one specific preparation ought to be able to get that one thing right.Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to learn how my return to St. Louis Wing Co. turned out.
I attributed the sogginess to a coating of batter that hadn't been fried long enough. That was a mistake on my part, and chef/owner Bobby Tessler ripped me a new one for it in the comments thread beneath the post. And I had it coming: At the very least, a food critic reviewing a restaurant that specializes in one specific preparation ought to know how it's made.
So: my bad. Didn't change my opinion of the wings I'd eaten, though.
Then, a few weeks back, a Gut Check contributor -- a writer who doesn't dole out praise unless it has been earned -- extolled the glories of St. Louis Wing Co.'s wings. I knew I had to go back.