by Ian Froeb
Pizza is the food most commonly associated with such ovens -- thin-crust pies that cook quickly at very high heat -- and pizza is the focal point of twinOak's menu. Pizzas come in one size, about ten inches in diameter. Based on my visits, this is too much for one diner, but not enough for two to share; expect leftovers.
The "Classic" is the most basic pizza: crust, tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil. The thin crust has enough chew to withstand multiple toppings even at its center. The brick oven imparts its characteristic char in spots -- enough to accent, but not overwhelm, the crust's mild flavor.