by Ian Froeb
At first glance, the suppli al telefono might be the most intriguing dish at Bocci Bar. You don't need to understand Italian to reason that a telephone is somehow involved. Actually, even if you do parla a little Italiano, this name might prompt a frown. Translated literally, it means "croquettes on the phone."
Something has been lost in that translation.
The menu describes these suppli al telefono as "cheese-stuffed rice balls." That makes more sense. Actually, that sounds just like arancini, and what arrives at your table looks just like arancini: three golden-brown fritters, each as big as a toddler's fist, served with marinara sauce.