Try the Bacon, Onion and Gruyère Omelet-Stuffed Crêpe at Lola

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Eggs wrapped in...more eggs. - ROBIN WHEELER
  • Robin Wheeler
  • Eggs wrapped in...more eggs.

What's better than eggs? How about eggs wrapped in a thin, eggy pancake? Lola (500 North 14th Street; 314-621-7277) provides diners with not one, not two, but four different omelet-stuffed crêpes.

We recently fell hard for the version with bacon, caramelized onion and Gruyère. It sounds like a gluttonous riot of fat, but it's really an exercise in restraint and delicacy.

The omelet is on the dense side. The Gruyère lends it a nutty flavor as well as a slight sweetness, which complements the caramelized onions. Everything is blended together well: The texture is even, and there are no pockets of individual flavors.

This omelet is blanketed in a loose crêpe, which is chewy enough to stand up to a fork despite its thinness. Silky and mild, the crêpe adds a bit more sweetness and a hint of egg in its batter.

Instead of topping this omelet-within-a-crêpe with a sauce, Lola goes simple with a sprinkle of crumbled bacon, green onions and finely chopped fresh herbs. The bacon gives a touch of crunch and smoke, while the greens add freshness and lightness to what could easily have been a heavy, oppressive dish.

There is not even a hint of greasiness to weigh down Lola's omelet-stuffed crêpe. It's filling but lacks the oily sluggishness that can accompany hearty brunch dishes. This is a brunch that will keep you satisfied through the day without making you feel like you need to return to bed.

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