Review Preview: Mad Tomato

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Vito Racanelli in the kitchen of Mad Tomato - JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
  • Vito Racanelli in the kitchen of Mad Tomato
This week I visit Mad Tomato (8000 Carondelet Avenue, Clayton; 314-932-5733), the new rustic Italian restaurant from Vito Racanelli.
The "Hunter's Egg," one of the antipasti listed on the menu at the four-month-old Clayton restaurant Mad Tomato, is a dish worth discussing even as you eat it. It's an egg, poached in tomato broth and then served in that broth over thick polenta, with tomato, al dente white beans and chopped pancetta. It could easily be a satisfying main dish for one. It is rich, yes, with the egg yolk and the creamy polenta, but the brightness of good tomatoes keeps it in check. You might tell your tablemates this is the sort of dish you'll crave on the first cold morning of the coming autumn.

Whether your tablemates will hear you rhapsodize is another matter.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

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