The Elusive Seasonal Peach Ice Cream at Crown Candy Kitchen

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DEBORAH HYLAND
  • Deborah Hyland

Although J. Alfred Prufrock notably pondered, "Do I dare to eat a peach?", anyone who has faced summer's surfeit of peaches knows that peaches should be consumed, and consumed fairly quickly.

For a few brief weeks of summer, we can savor broiled peaches, brandied peaches, peach pies, peach cobblers. The industrious might make some peach jam or can a few quarts to last into the winter.

Why heat up the kitchen, though? Alas, peach ice cream requires all that cranking and rock salt and more cranking. At the very least, peach ice cream requires the great effort of plugging in the electric ice cream maker.

In fact, why labor over peaches at all? At Crown Candy Kitchen (1401 St. Louis Avenue; 314-621-9650) the peach ice cream has returned for the summer, or as our waitress said, "till we use all our peaches up." Chunks of fresh peaches, slightly crystalized from freezing, peep out amid the faintest peach blush of the ice cream. The only effort involves deciding whether one scoop will be enough.

There's no way to guess exactly how much longer the peach ice cream would be around, and with Crown Candy closed from Saturday, September 3 through the Monday of Labor Day weekend, delay eating if you dare.

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