Review Preview: Three Kings Public House

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JENNIFER SILVERBERG
  • Jennifer Silverberg
This week, I visit Three Kings Public House (6307 Delmar Boulevard, University City; 314-721-3355), a new restaurant taking the place of a Delmar Loop legend.

For those of us who call the Loop a second home, whose office windows overlook the stretch of sidewalk where Riddle's patrons passed many a balmy evening waiting for the wine they'd ordered (nostalgia can cloud only so much; the service could be terrible), its potential replacement brought with it a sense of the inevitable. It would become a chain restaurant or a "local" and "independent" restaurant aping a chain. Or maybe it would be subdivided. A space as large as Riddle's could accommodate two cell-phone stores!

Yes, we were cynical. We were also wrong.

Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.

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