This week Ian stopped by the Mud House (2101 Cherokee Street; 314-776-6599).
Even if you know nothing about the Mud House's history, chef or garden, more than a cursory glance at the menu, which is written on a chalkboard and updated frequently as items run out or specials change, will tell you that the fare, though casual, is not run-of-the-mill. Consider the pork-shoulder sandwich. Shoulder, or Boston butt, is best known as the go-to cut for pulled pork, but this town is already lousy with pulled pork. Here Bork prepares a confit of the shoulder. As you might imagine, cooking pork in rendered pork fat yields meat that is sinfully luscious and intensely porky -- a purer porcine flavor (he says, nervously eyeing the hordes) than barbecue pork.
Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to read Ian's full review.