On a balmy evening in early May, I drive down South Broadway -- south South Broadway: scrapyards to my left, ramshackle storefronts to my right, here and there a sliver of the swollen Mississippi visible between rooftops and storage tanks -- and then hang a left on River City Casino Boulevard toward another world altogether. I don't mean the casino itself. Its smoky clamor will be familiar to hardcore gambler and curious punter alike. No, the name of this strange new world is The Beerhouse, one of the restaurants inside River City. (When the casino opened last year, this was called the 1904 Beerhouse; the 1904 designation now belongs to the casino's steakhouse.) A meal here might be the most surreal dining experience currently on offer in St. Louis.Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.