Foie gras, one of the three key ingredient's in Tony's stellar dish
I have a nickname for this dish. It's profane and has no place in a discussion of a restaurant as classy as Tony's. Suffice to say, the nickname expresses in two succinct words what I imagine this dish would say, if it could, to every single trend-humping "composition" of lobster foam and tweezer-applied microgreens.
Let's just pretend those two words are, "I'm delicious!"
An exquisitely tender slice of beef tenderloin needs few accompaniments. Maybe the only thing that can make it even more indulgent is a seared slice of foie gras. It seems to melt in your mouth as easily butter on a hot pan. As if this weren't enough, the port wine demi-glace, ladled over the dish tableside, adds yet another layer of rich flavor and a velvety texture.
This isn't something that you can -- or should -- eat very often. Yet like a visit to Tony's itself, it is a welcome counterweight to restaurant trends both good and bad, a reminder that certain elements of fine dining are timeless.
And to those who will inevitably object to my celebrating foie gras, I'll just let the dish speak for itself.