by Ian Froeb
La Tejana is the least restaurant-like of the many restaurants I've visited, an experience less like dining out than stopping by a friend's place for a beer and a snack. Visit a couple of times in one week, and the owner greets you with a smile and a handshake. Ask him for a bottle opener for your Mexican Coca-Cola, and with a chuckle, he says, "You mean you won't open it your teeth like a real Mexican?"Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.
Finding La Tejana is a challenge, even if Google Maps or your GPS device pinpoints the dingy strip mall on North Lindbergh Boulevard, just south of St. Charles Rock Road, the taqueria calls home. Anchoring the strip mall is a market, Tienda la Tejana, which has the same name and owner as the taqueria, but not the same entrance. In the middle of the strip is a sign bearing the taqueria's name and logo -- the silhouette of a shapely woman in boots and a cowboy hat and brandishing a six shooter -- but there is no entrance here, either, only a window, through which you might catch a tantalizing glimpse of a solitary diner squeezing a lime wedge over a plate of tacos, his fingers seeming to press the fruit together in slow motion, mocking, mocking.