The rustic charm of Brasserie by Niche is evident in its design and its cassoulet. (Translation: We didn't have a picture of the damn cassoulet handy.)
The classic white-bean stew is served with pork (belly on my visit, shoulder more recently), a confit of duck leg and a garlicky pork sausage. The beans are the ideal texture, firm to the first bite but ultimately yielding. Each meat adds a distinct note -- luscious meat, salty duck, lightly peppery sausage -- and combine to make the Platonic ideal of hearty fare.
Brasserie by Niche
4580 Laclede Avenue; 314-454-0600
"Honest to Goodness"
- February 4, 2010