Ask the Critic: Where Can I Find a Good Pizza Bianca?


Kiwi from Maplewood writes:
Where can I get some really good pizza bianca here in town? I don't want something that resembles cheese bread, which I suspect is what I'd get at most restaurants if I asked them to leave off the tomato sauce. I realize that I can make a pretty nice one myself with olive oil and salt and rosemary on it, but where can I get one with, say, goat cheese and greens or whatever on it?
I didn't have to think very hard on this one -- I just had to return to the restaurant in question to make sure my memories were accurate.

My answer, with photo, after the jump....

The proscuitto bianca pizza at The Good Pie - IAN FROEB
  • Ian Froeb
  • The proscuitto bianca pizza at The Good Pie

For my money, the best pizza bianca in St. Louis -- one of the best pizzas, period -- is the prosciutto bianca at The Good Pie (3137 Olive Street; 314-289-9391). Cooked in The Good Pie's Neapolitan-style wood-burning oven, the prosciutto bianca features tissue-thin slices of real-deal prosciutto di Parma, arugula and fresh mozzarella. The saltiness of the prosciutto is beautifully balanced by the peppery arugula, while the cheese accents rather than smothers the crust. And, oh, that crust: soft and a little chewy at the edges, thin but not collapsing in the center, with just the right amount of char. It's a bit pricey -- $16 (more if you substitute mozzarella di bufala for the regular fresh mozzarella) -- but if you want a true pizza bianca instead of glorified cheese bread, it's worth the cost.

Gut Check readers: What are your recommendations for good pizza bianca in St. Louis?

Have a question for
RFT restaurant critic Ian Froeb? Email him with "Ask the Critic" as the subject line.

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