by Ian Froeb
Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.If Balaban's Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar is meant to evoke nostalgia, then I must admit upfront that I'm not the ideal audience. I wasn't yet born when Herbie Balaban opened his iconic restaurant in the Central West End; by the time I did review it, 35 years later, it was in its final iteration, the menu purged of beef Wellington, cucumber bisque and other Balaban's classics, the see-and-be-seen bar purged of smokers (and, thus, vacant). I liked this "new" Balaban's, but St. Louis diners didn't cotton to the changes: In January 2008 the restaurant closed its doors.
Yet the lure of the Balaban's mythos remains strong.