Visit at the right time -- a weekend lunch, say, Disney Channel programming blaring from the two flat-screen TVs, parents hunched over steaming bowls of pho, their kids plowing through plates of plain rice and sweet grilled pork -- and you might believe Mama Pho remains a branch of the fast-food empire. Everything feels so casual, so commonplace, that it comes as a shock when your server hands you a laminated menu on which the closest thing to a McDonald's milkshake is a durian smoothie.Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.
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