Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.The Main Street address of Wildwood's Table Three might conjure images of a quaint small town, a Norman Rockwell fantasy of families bustling among storefront displays of hand-dipped chocolates, leather-bound books and toy trains. This, however, is 2010, and Wildwood's "Main Street" is a mixed-use development meant to evoke a small-town feel but still new enough that you can practically smell the drywall. While there are some flashes back to the past -- the town opened a new city hall here -- it's a thoroughly contemporary enterprise: Next door to Table Three is a sleek-seeming chiropractic center called 212 Degrees to Wellness, which I mistook for a Bikram-yoga studio until I realized that, while Bikram aficionados do like it hot, they probably prefer the temperature to be somewhere south of boiling.
Table Three itself is certainly no throwback; it's a restaurant in the modern American vein, pitched somewhere between casual and upscale. You can wear jeans, watch football at the bar and read the daily specials off a chalkboard, but that lamb "porterhouse" entrée you ordered, with mashed potatoes and the vegetable of the day, will set you back $28.